Hurricane's XTR #2 build - 2022

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Hurricane

Well-known member
Messages
60
Reaction score
89
Location
North of Seattle, Wa.
Corally RC's
  1. Kronos XTR
  2. Radix
Here's a build log for my second XTR a 2022 model. I posted some of these thoughts on the Arrma Forum but this seemed like a better place for this...

Well I got mine put together. My notes from putting it together... Pre first run...

- Disappointed that they didn't include the foam to reach the body like they did on the Sketer. Ordered the foam part... C-00180-834 hopefully it fits or that I can make it fit. It was a problem in the V1 too.
- The screw for the ESC plate from the chassis was missing/not installed.
- As noted in RCP's unboxing video, the hexes don't have any serrations, just smooth on both sides. Swapped that out for serrated nuts.
- The tires feel the same as the old ones that were a bit soft for the power of the normal TC ESC/Motor on 6S. Will try them out but have some other tires incase they are looking to blow out. (probably fine for 4S)
- The antenna tube doesn't have a way to retain it. Hopefully my hot glue fix doesn't look to getto.
- This time the Torox 185 from Jenny's didn't have the cap pack installed. So I had to install that myself. Maybe a change in the kits?
- The receiver box is a little on the small side. I put some thick (3/16th") servo tape to give it padding from jumps only to find that I couldn't get the lid to close. (and that is with the smaller of my receiver options.) I had to change to very thin servo tape.
- The ESC wire routing to the receiver just barely makes it. Under the battery tray, under the servo to the receiver box. Maybe 1/2" to spare... Also a pain to install/remove but it should be VERY protected.
- While I really like the ESC power switch holder, it can't be adjusted/rotated while the switch is installed. I have it slightly loose so I can rotate it as needed. It's only 2 screws so it's not that bad but I like to being able to move easier since I am not sure where I will need clearance.
- I repositioned the GPS holder but might put it back closer to the center part if I can get some clearance on my attachment of the single battery loop. I did check to see if the GPS holder and ESC power buttons holders might fit Arrma 6S trucks but the center brace is larger on the TC. 12MM vs 10MM but it will fit the 8S line as my K8S EXB has 12MM bars.
- Seems to have a tighter turning radius than most my 6S Arrma's judging on how it runs from my kitchen, turning down the hallway.
- Didn't find any loose nuts on the nut check.
- I really like that the motor slide bolts are big 3MM cap head screws with washers, not the button head screws like the Arrma's have that I like to swap out.
- Per the user manual, the diffs are set at their recommended setting for bashing but the Shocks are a little soft (only 50cst off) but I am going to run it as is to see what it is like. It already has stiffer springs than the V1. I really like how plush the V1 shocks are. Side note... In fact I wonder if they wouldn't be a nice/affordable upgrade for the Arrma 3S line using the Python shocks but I can't tell how long they are. Since Demand for the 6s Typhon shocks have driven those prices up. I bought the Mojave front and Kraton front shocks for my Big Rock. Maybe I will try a set on the Senton if it comes off Street duty.
- Note that the body has the overspray layer still on. I bought my V1 used and they had put the window decals and such over it, so I had to take it off and try to reuse them as best as I could. The good news was that it protected the body from some rash when he flipped it on the first run.

Hurricane

V1 top, V2 bottom

08E112CC-EDFC-4510-A904-1A9116DCE532_1_105_c.jpeg
91E34396-367F-45D7-9BC0-6B0E515AB660_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Here's a build log for my second XTR a 2022 model. I posted some of these thoughts on the Arrma Forum but this seemed like a better place for this...

Well I got mine put together. My notes from putting it together... Pre first run...

- Disappointed that they didn't include the foam to reach the body like they did on the Sketer. Ordered the foam part... C-00180-834 hopefully it fits or that I can make it fit. It was a problem in the V1 too.
- The screw for the ESC plate from the chassis was missing/not installed.
- As noted in RCP's unboxing video, the hexes don't have any serrations, just smooth on both sides. Swapped that out for serrated nuts.
- The tires feel the same as the old ones that were a bit soft for the power of the normal TC ESC/Motor on 6S. Will try them out but have some other tires incase they are looking to blow out. (probably fine for 4S)
- The antenna tube doesn't have a way to retain it. Hopefully my hot glue fix doesn't look to getto.
- This time the Torox 185 from Jenny's didn't have the cap pack installed. So I had to install that myself. Maybe a change in the kits?
- The receiver box is a little on the small side. I put some thick (3/16th") servo tape to give it padding from jumps only to find that I couldn't get the lid to close. (and that is with the smaller of my receiver options.) I had to change to very thin servo tape.
- The ESC wire routing to the receiver just barely makes it. Under the battery tray, under the servo to the receiver box. Maybe 1/2" to spare... Also a pain to install/remove but it should be VERY protected.
- While I really like the ESC power switch holder, it can't be adjusted/rotated while the switch is installed. I have it slightly loose so I can rotate it as needed. It's only 2 screws so it's not that bad but I like to being able to move easier since I am not sure where I will need clearance.
- I repositioned the GPS holder but might put it back closer to the center part if I can get some clearance on my attachment of the single battery loop. I did check to see if the GPS holder and ESC power buttons holders might fit Arrma 6S trucks but the center brace is larger on the TC. 12MM vs 10MM but it will fit the 8S line as my K8S EXB has 12MM bars.
- Seems to have a tighter turning radius than most my 6S Arrma's judging on how it runs from my kitchen, turning down the hallway.
- Didn't find any loose nuts on the nut check.
- I really like that the motor slide bolts are big 3MM cap head screws with washers, not the button head screws like the Arrma's have that I like to swap out.
- Per the user manual, the diffs are set at their recommended setting for bashing but the Shocks are a little soft (only 50cst off) but I am going to run it as is to see what it is like. It already has stiffer springs than the V1. I really like how plush the V1 shocks are. Side note... In fact I wonder if they wouldn't be a nice/affordable upgrade for the Arrma 3S line using the Python shocks but I can't tell how long they are. Since Demand for the 6s Typhon shocks have driven those prices up. I bought the Mojave front and Kraton front shocks for my Big Rock. Maybe I will try a set on the Senton if it comes off Street duty.
- Note that the body has the overspray layer still on. I bought my V1 used and they had put the window decals and such over it, so I had to take it off and try to reuse them as best as I could. The good news was that it protected the body from some rash when he flipped it on the first run.

Hurricane

V1 top, V2 bottom

View attachment 774View attachment 775
Nice man! I’ve been waiting for this for awhile! Nicely done :) and well documented.
 
Got back from the first run and I am loving how good the turning is. The center diff is light so the front tires are diffing out. Need to heavy that up some but it could be something that contributes to the quick handling. Going to try ~300K in the center diff to start. I swapped out the stock tires for the Backflip 6S tires I had on my '21 XTR. Might go back to the stock one's to get some use out of them but enjoy either the Backflip or Backflip LP. Had a good time with it and got to show it to a few others at the same time. Happy with the purchase so far!
Hurricane
 
I should have noted what I used for electronics...
- Torox 185 ESC with the cap pack installed
- Kuron 825 motor
- Racestar 46kg servo from Banggood (but not currently listed) BLS7146HV

Hurricane

Two..!!! 🤪 you lucky lucky man 👍🏼
Yeah I felt like the 1st one was a good value and the new one has ~$150 in upgrades and only $10 more. It was the only thing that kept me from buying a Sketer, was that the rumor that it was coming soon. (this is RC #23) Probably get a Sketer at some point.
Hurricane
 
I should have noted what I used for electronics...
- Torox 185 ESC with the cap pack installed
- Kuron 825 motor
- Racestar 46kg servo from Banggood (but not currently listed) BLS7146HV

Hurricane
Nice build man! Things are awesome.
My Python also has the cap pack but the Torox is a rebranded Max8 and i have been abusing that thing without a cap pack, no issues.
Why did Corally add the cap pack?
 
Nice build man! Things are awesome.
My Python also has the cap pack but the Torox is a rebranded Max8 and i have been abusing that thing without a cap pack, no issues.
Why did Corally add the cap pack?
IDK what's up with the cap pack, I know what it's for(prevent voltage drop) but, first torox from JRC had one, a month later I bought a second and it didn't have one..personally, I don't like em because it's another liability I have to tie down somewhere.. I never really had voltage sag(I've noticed anyway) without a cap pack.
 
IDK what's up with the cap pack, I know what it's for(prevent voltage drop) but, first torox from JRC had one, a month later I bought a second and it didn't have one..personally, I don't like em because it's another liability I have to tie down somewhere.. I never really had voltage sag(I've noticed anyway) without a cap pack.
Thanks man, exactly what i thought. I do use cap packs in my boats but they are way more power hungry than 1/8 rc cars (not the speedrunners maybe).
I'm going to redo the ESC wiring, it's way too much even without the with the cap pack (y)
 
Nice build man! Things are awesome.
My Python also has the cap pack but the Torox is a rebranded Max8 and i have been abusing that thing without a cap pack, no issues.
Why did Corally add the cap pack?
if you want to look at their literature on it they give the reasons.Cap pack install The original Torox I bought had it installed and they are on the stock Spektrum ESC’s also. figured that it couldn’t hurt and i haven’t had any issues on my Spektrum ESC’s so why not. (But friends have had issues) Helps that I spent some on my soldering set up lately so I wouldn’t have excuses to not solder but still like to batch the work…
Hurricane
 
if you want to look at their literature on it they give the reasons.Cap pack install The original Torox I bought had it installed and they are on the stock Spektrum ESC’s also. figured that it couldn’t hurt and i haven’t had any issues on my Spektrum ESC’s so why not. (But friends have had issues) Helps that I spent some on my soldering set up lately so I wouldn’t have excuses to not solder but still like to batch the work…
Hurricane
thanks, i thought it was Corally doing this, never noticed.

I think Hobbywing recommend fitting the cap pack in the Max 8 manual..
Taken from the manual, so I think in a buggy you can safely remove the cap pack if you want 👍🏼

View attachment 800
thanks man, they probably built these esc's for all the Corally models, also the heavy Kronosses.
I want to get around 90 km/h from the Python so no worries, cap pack goes off (y)
 
Something I learned in taking the center diff out. The tower to tower braces have a slide in connection at the tower side, front and rear. So in theory you don't have to take it as far apart as I did to access it.
3EEDB854-F5C2-4B2B-AAFC-C746FB4CE77B_1_105_c.jpeg
 
So I got my foam pads for the body support tower in... C-00180-834. I got one for each. The fit isn't perfect on the V1 but it is still very usable. It's just larger than the V1 top plate. I installed it with the adhesive on the bottom. Should have aligned the holes better, but it's usable and the foam can support the body and looks very factory. The fit on the top plate of the V2 is perfect but I have it apart so I can't validate the height to support the body but expect it to be appropriate.
Hurricane
 
Something I learned in taking the center diff out. The tower to tower braces have a slide in connection at the tower side, front and rear. So in theory you don't have to take it as far apart as I did to access it. View attachment 810
I discovered this as well butbonly after pulling off the hardware on the shock tower.
Knowing this will make the service easier down the road. Hope folks understand this gem of wisdom.
 
So I ran my '22 XTR at today's bash. It was great fun! Some highlights...
- Running some bash races against some over powered 1/5th scales (Losi DBXLE 2.0 and Kraton 8S EXB) and was able to pull away from them...
- On a straight chasing a Max6/1650 powered Mojave and the XTR just caught up and ran over it! (I didn't expect to catch him that fast so didn't have time to evade)
- Doing double backflips off of a short ramp.

It was really doing it all - racing, jumping and handling well.

The only bad things were...
- the LBC was not soft and seemed to drain the battery down more than I was hoping for. Will have to watch that.
- The rear wing support plates stripped out. (see below) I really wish that TC would make those available separately as they are the part that breaks, not the whole thing like they sell.
- the 300K center diff fluid didn't seem to be enough. Going to 500K next. (hopefully before tomorrow's bash)

Hurricane
5CC6979C-3847-4071-80B3-8555B1679351_1_105_c.jpeg

4466E709-D24C-43E2-8414-789643EC15B9_1_105_c.jpeg
 
- The rear wing support plates stripped out. (see below) I really wish that TC would make those available separately as they are the part that breaks, not the whole thing like they sell.

View attachment 896

Maybe try fitting some large washers behind the head of the bolt, that might help to spread the load :unsure:
 
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