I want to check the fluid level on my center diff, and I'm looking for recommendations as to the easiest way to get the center diff out. Let me know what has worked best for you.
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I decided to try and tackle it while waiting for answers. I was able to get it out with just a little bit of force without doing anything more than pulling the plastic top piece off. Nothing was bent or damaged.Yeah they're a pain, I imagine the best practical way would be to pull the screws for the center diff under the chassis and pull motor and all out the side, I typically just line the drive cups up so the slots are pointing up/down and start pulling, gives a little more flexibility but far from proper, haven't bent anything yet but is a possibility so rather poor advice
If it's anything like the Kronos XTR then you'll find the hardest part is to put the centre diff back in! It's such a tight fit because of all the bracing that no matter how aligned the drive cups are you still need to force it in a bit.I decided to try and tackle it while waiting for answers. I was able to get it out with just a little bit of force without doing anything more than pulling the plastic top piece off. Nothing was bent or damaged.
There was very little fluid in the center diff: I had some 100k fluid that I used to fill it to the proper level. I currently have 20/100/10 (F/C/R) in it now, and I might go 40/300/20 (or something similar) in the future after I've driven it more (it's raining today).
I didn't have much of an issue getting it back in: it was tight, but it didn't take me much force to get it in. It would be easier if Corally had done what Arrma did on their V5 Kraton, which is split the plastic bearing holder on the motor mount horizontally, so the diff comes straight up. The previous versions of the Arrma vehicle had the same type of bearing mount as Corally uses now, and Arrma redesigned it for easier maintenance.If it's anything like the Kronos XTR then you'll find the hardest part is to put the centre diff back in! It's such a tight fit because of all the bracing that no matter how aligned the drive cups are you still need to force it in a bit.
Yeah, I'm not familiar with the Arrmas but I think I get what you're saying.I didn't have much of an issue getting it back in: it was tight, but it didn't take me much force to get it in. It would be easier if Corally had done what Arrma did on their V5 Kraton, which is split the plastic bearing holder on the motor mount horizontally, so the diff comes straight up. The previous versions of the Arrma vehicle had the same type of bearing mount as Corally uses now, and Arrma redesigned it for easier maintenance.
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