Drive pin replacement tool

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Nelson.81

Nelson.81

Well-known member
Messages
682
Reaction score
1,041
Points
288
So waited until I’m off to tear down my buggy and the drive pin on my titanium driveshafts pretty much had it, spring steel outdrives pretty worn on rear too. Drive pin needs replaced or a new shafts & don’t want to buy new titanium shafts again if can avoid it. I’ve never tried changing them before saw some do it in a vice the proper tools for doing it a bit expensive for something I probably won’t use to often saw these pinion press/pullers look like they’d do a similar job for fraction price. The mugen, hudy, amr drive pin replacement tools all silly money. Anyone else any experience or suggestions.

IMG_8444.webp


IMG_8437.webp


IMG_8439.webp


IMG_8440.webp


IMG_8442.webp


IMG_8441.webp
 
I replace d a couple driveshaft pins using a tool I bought that I saw on a UK RC forum. The guy no loner makes makes them, but someone in our group recently bought a new tool. I believe it’s called AMR pin replacement tool.
Seems to work really well. Key is to heat up the old pin as they use locktite form factory (not needed when installing new pin). If they ols pin is somewhat bent, it will take a lot of more force to get it out.
Speaking from experience😅.
It will pay for itself after just a couple pin replacements since a bag of 10 pins is only like pocket change, whereas a just one new cvd or driveshaft costs a multiple of that.
1750362966154.webp
 
Keep in mind that fitments like that are sometimes held in place with slip fit compound not interference and you will need heat to remove them.
 
The outdrives on my Asuga need replacing too and the dogbone pins are equally worn. The pins are 12.8mm long and don't fully engage with the side walls of the cups so I'm going to try an experiment. I will replace the stock M3 pins with 14mm stainless steel ones, these will fully engage the cups (they will stick out by about 0.5mm) and should wear down first. If this works it will be much easier to just periodically replace the pins as they wear out than it is tearing the whole differential apart.
 
Atomic Skull said:
The outdrives on my Asuga need replacing too and the dogbone pins are equally worn. The pins are 12.8mm long and don't fully engage with the side walls of the cups so I'm going to try an experiment. I will replace the stock M3 pins with 14mm stainless steel ones, these will fully engage the cups (they will stick out by about 0.5mm) and should wear down first. If this works it will be much easier to just periodically replace the pins as they wear out than it is tearing the whole differential apart.
Click to expand...
I’ve ordered the 3x14mm ones also, I’m also looking for 3x14.5mm but haven’t found any might have to make some myself if the 14mm won’t work for what I need
 
Has anyone successfully replaced their drive pins? I tried earlier today with both a bench vice and and 5 ton press and the pins would absolutely not budge even a fraction of a mm. I even tried nuking it with a heat gun in case they had used slip fit compound but no good.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Has anyone successfully replaced their drive pins? I tried earlier today with both a bench vice and and 5 ton press and the pins would absolutely not budge even a fraction of a mm. I even tried nuking it with a heat gun in case they had used slip fit compound but no good.
Click to expand...
Yes. I found that if you don’t give it a lot of heat first, and by that I mean A LOT of heat (almost red hot with a jet flame lighter), it’s almost impossible to get the pin out. That’s because the stock pins either have red locktite or some sort of crazy glue on them.
With the heat, proper tool and vice it’s actually relatively easy. Without those though, it can be almost impossible.
No need for locktite when you replace the pin. Just press it in and it won’t go anywhere.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Yes. I found that if you don’t give it a lot of heat first, and by that I mean A LOT of heat (almost red hot with a jet flame lighter), it’s almost impossible to get the pin out. That’s because the stock pins either have red locktite or some sort of crazy glue on them.
With the heat, proper tool and vice it’s actually relatively easy. Without those though, it can be almost impossible.
No need for locktite when you replace the pin. Just press it in and it won’t go anywhere.
Click to expand...

They probably used high strength high temp retaining compound not red locktite. They make stuff specifically for this such as the Locktite 600 series compounds. They are commonly used in R/C helis to retain bearings in their seats though we usually use something similar to #648 that's a little easier to remove with heat for that.

I ordered the AMR kit and I'll try heating the end over a gas flame next time. Last time I used a heat gun on high and a reflector which in my experiance can get it up to around 500F which is enough to shrink PTFE shrink tubing, crazy that that's not enough.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/amr-drive-pin-replacement-tool-amr020/p1247377

According to their Youtube instructional video the pin seat will wear over time allowing the pin to move and the dogbone shouldn't be re-pinned more than a couple times but if that were to happen I'd just use some SAB retaining compound I have laying around which would definately keep it in place.
 
Last edited:
Bit the bullet and ordered one myself arrived yesterday but haven’t used it yet. I’m uk got my from Wheelspin models. Razor rc he recommended them he also has a vid of it.

 
Back
Top