Muraco Building the Ultimate 6S

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taboo

taboo

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Hi everyone !
I've gone pretty big on my Corally 6S, started as a Muraco V1, lol ..
7075 chassis, 7075 front and rear shock towers, RadicalRC bash bar, spring steel cups, titanium steering rack with 7075 dual bar, Savox 50kg servo, CRCU hinge pin holders, 4mm steel standoffs, hard springs, diff and shock oils all upped, CRCU hub extenders and spikey wheel nuts, Proline Badlands, Radiolink RC4GS V3 5 channel radio, Castle motor fan...
Really want to upgrade the motor to stop the heat issues, there is so much room there for a bigger motor, what do you recommend ???
 
I have a Castle MMX 8S ESC and Castle 1717 1650kv motor with 20T pinion in my Kraton 6s. With this combo, the Kraton is a beast, and I'm sure it would wake up a Muraco as well. The Castle system runs really cool: I can run the Kraton with full throttle runs for twenty minutes and the motor never gets above 130F in 80F+ weather, even when I didn't have a fan on the motor.

My Muraco has the following mods:

Powerhobby 729 MBL servo
TC 7075 5mm front shock tower
TC 7075 5mm rear shock tower
TC 7075 front chassis brace
TC 7075 rear chassis brace
TC Xtreme Chassis Brace kit with new steering deck
TC 7075 center diff support (only available from Corally Europe)
CNC 7075 hinge pin mounts, front and rear (from Erik van Ravenstein)
CNC 7075 center diff motor mount insert (from Erik van Ravenstein)
Corally heavy shock springs
Corally heavy duty steering blocks
Corally rear CVDs
TRB RC ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
dboot Katar-T belted tires (same as on an Arrma Talion)
NHX high-speed fan
NHX carbon fiber fan guard
Powerhobby clamp-on fan mount

I don't jump my Muraco much, so I haven't upgraded the chassis plate or drive cups. With the Xtreme chassis brace I see no need to upgrade the chassis plate. I will replace the drive cups with the spring steel ones if and when the stock drive cups show signs of wear.
 
Awesome !!! Thanks for the advice ! I'll look up the motor...
 
taboo said:
Hi everyone !
I've gone pretty big on my Corally 6S, started as a Muraco V1, lol ..
7075 chassis, 7075 front and rear shock towers, RadicalRC bash bar, spring steel cups, titanium steering rack with 7075 dual bar, Savox 50kg servo, CRCU hinge pin holders, 4mm steel standoffs, hard springs, diff and shock oils all upped, CRCU hub extenders and spikey wheel nuts, Proline Badlands, Radiolink RC4GS V3 5 channel radio, Castle motor fan...
Really want to upgrade the motor to stop the heat issues, there is so much room there for a bigger motor, what do you recommend ???
Click to expand...
Does this servo make it turn better? I upgraded the servo spring and wanted to buy a more powerful servo, I asked in a model shop but they told me a stronger servo doesn't help 🤷🏻‍♂️ Surely with a stiffer sprint a 50Kg servo would be better than the standard 25Kg one?

morrjr71 said:
I have a Castle MMX 8S ESC and Castle 1717 1650kv motor with 20T pinion in my Kraton 6s. With this combo, the Kraton is a beast, and I'm sure it would wake up a Muraco as well. The Castle system runs really cool: I can run the Kraton with full throttle runs for twenty minutes and the motor never gets above 130F in 80F+ weather, even when I didn't have a fan on the motor.

My Muraco has the following mods:

Powerhobby 729 MBL servo
TC 7075 5mm front shock tower
TC 7075 5mm rear shock tower
TC 7075 front chassis brace
TC 7075 rear chassis brace
TC Xtreme Chassis Brace kit with new steering deck
TC 7075 center diff support (only available from Corally Europe)
CNC 7075 hinge pin mounts, front and rear (from Erik van Ravenstein)
CNC 7075 center diff motor mount insert (from Erik van Ravenstein)
Corally heavy shock springs
Corally heavy duty steering blocks
Corally rear CVDs
TRB RC ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
dboot Katar-T belted tires (same as on an Arrma Talion)
NHX high-speed fan
NHX carbon fiber fan guard
Powerhobby clamp-on fan mount

I don't jump my Muraco much, so I haven't upgraded the chassis plate or drive cups. With the Xtreme chassis brace I see no need to upgrade the chassis plate. I will replace the drive cups with the spring steel ones if and when the stock drive cups show signs of wear.
Click to expand...
Does this servo make it turn better? I upgraded the servo spring and wanted to buy a more powerful servo, I asked in a model shop but they told me a stronger servo doesn't help 🤷🏻‍♂️ Surely with a stiffer sprint a 50Kg servo would be better than the standard 25Kg one?
 
Chuzz said:
Does this servo make it turn better? I upgraded the servo spring and wanted to buy a more powerful servo, I asked in a model shop but they told me a stronger servo doesn't help 🤷🏻‍♂️ Surely with a stiffer sprint a 50Kg servo would be better than the standard 25Kg one?


Does this servo make it turn better? I upgraded the servo spring and wanted to buy a more powerful servo, I asked in a model shop but they told me a stronger servo doesn't help 🤷🏻‍♂️ Surely with a stiffer sprint a 50Kg servo would be better than the standard 25Kg one?
Click to expand...
The Powerhobby 729MBL servo is strong and quick: 500 OZ / 0.100sec @ 7.4V. I have a 729MBL in five vehicles: it is my "go to" replacement for weak stock servos. It is a brushless servo, vice the stock servo that I believe is only coreless and has a reputation for failure. My Kraton is a lot heavier than my Muraco, and the 729MBL has no problems steering it with heavy tires.
 
This is my ultimate 6s-8s build
.

I call it the "Armed Kronos XTR"
Max 6 combo, with dual heat shrink fans
Saxox water proof black addition steering servo
10mm shock towers (5mm 7075/ 5mm carbon fiber)
Outcast 8s wing and wheelie bar
Proline badlands 1/8 scale belted tires
17mm aluminum removable wheel hubs.
19t cast iron dual grub set screw pinion
Kraton 6s exb v5 Rpm A-arms
Kraton 6s exb. v5 stainless steel CVD Axles s aswell as front and jrear drive shaft,
GPM 7mm shock shafts 124mm /138mm length with reservoir
Infraction 6s center chassis brave

And yes it's plasti dip for the arms . Didn't like.the maroon color of the rpm arms 1701479695690.png

1701479647666.png
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1701479598275.png

PXL_20231202_005826469.jpg


PXL_20231202_005613577.jpg


PXL_20231202_005557488.jpg


PXL_20231202_005826469.jpg
 
No I had to cut off a peace of the stock brace to slid over the it to where it fit the clamp for the top peace that gets to the shock tower a and I just put four grub screws in at the center diff slots. Just up pressure on it

PXL_20231202_005559976.jpg


PXL_20231202_005613577.jpg


Now this armas center brace eyelet ends. Do twist out to adjust. You do have to twist it out
 
No I had to cut off a peace of the stock brace to slid over the it to where it fit the clamp for the top peace that gets to the shock towr
 
taboo said:
Hi everyone !
I've gone pretty big on my Corally 6S, started as a Muraco V1, lol ..
7075 chassis, 7075 front and rear shock towers, RadicalRC bash bar, spring steel cups, titanium steering rack with 7075 dual bar, Savox 50kg servo, CRCU hinge pin holders, 4mm steel standoffs, hard springs, diff and shock oils all upped, CRCU hub extenders and spikey wheel nuts, Proline Badlands, Radiolink RC4GS V3 5 channel radio, Castle motor fan...
Really want to upgrade the motor to stop the heat issues, there is so much room there for a bigger motor, what do you recommend ???
Click to expand...
Don't know if you've got this sorted out yet, but 4092, 4292 and 4282 motors all fit. I used to run a 4092, then I went to a 4292, then a 4282 and now a Castle 1515.

Curious where you got your CRCU hingepin holders. I'm trying to eliminate the stock configuration on my Shogun and add tuneability for better results on the track.

As for heat issues, check your gearing first and then go lower on your KV and increase voltage.

Hope this helps.
 
Custom RC Upgrades in the UK, Lee makes quite a few upgrades for the Corally's, the hinge pin holders, titanium steering rack, steel shock standoffs, amazing wheel nuts and will hopefully be doing titanium chassis and shock towers soon too !
Thanks for the motor info !
 
I'm definitely going to check them out. Thanks for the info!

Edit:

I'm on the website now. Good gravy...those hingepin holders are frikkin BEEF! :oops: I think the arms would sheer in half before those things even thought about bending. Looks like I'm gonna have to order me some.
 
Last edited:
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