Arm twist

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AngrySection8

Well-known member
Messages
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Location
Iowa
Corally RC's
  1. Asuga
  2. Jambo
  3. Kagama
  4. Kronos
  5. Kronos XTR
  6. Python
  7. Radix
Has anyone else experienced the below picture? This is on my 8s powered v1 Kronos, all it takes is the lightest hit and my arms twist, I've upgraded to the newer arms hoping they wouldn't flex and it would resolve this and it is harder to do now but still does it, only thing left I can see would be the pillow balls/hubs but I can tighten them down and slightly back off and still does it, unless they're worn in odd?? Everything appears tight, everything compares to my radix and xtr but this one flex's, I'm at a loss

IMG_20220711_131946448_HDR.jpg
 
Has anyone else experienced the below picture? This is on my 8s powered v1 Kronos, all it takes is the lightest hit and my arms twist, I've upgraded to the newer arms hoping they wouldn't flex and it would resolve this and it is harder to do now but still does it, only thing left I can see would be the pillow balls/hubs but I can tighten them down and slightly back off and still does it, unless they're worn in odd?? Everything appears tight, everything compares to my radix and xtr but this one flex's, I'm at a loss

View attachment 2696
Not sure if this would help but are your droop screws set properly?
 
I can’t quite tell from the picture, but if it’s the steering bar that gives you issues. The xtr ones are steel rods. Problem is they then break at the plastic end.
I put arrma kraton 6s rod ends on my xtr steel bars and is much stronger. You have to cut a few millimetres off the bar as the arrma ends are a wee bit longer.
Also check your servo savers not to tight 👍

https://www.corallyforum.com/threads/arrma-compatible-steering-and-suspension-parts.132/
 
It's not the droops, don't get me wrong the more the suspension is compressed the harder it is to twist but the arms basically have to be flat in order to make it feel as robust as the other cars, which I'm not opposed to on this one but more of a bandaid than a cure. And I've already got the steel bars on for steering. I'm just gonna toss new pillow blocks on my next order and see what happens, worst case I just have more spare parts sitting around, really has me thinking they have oval wear, they go from tight to overly loose in a fraction of a turn. This was a used chassis I bought to do the 8s conversion on so I don't know it's history, for all I know the balls have popped out dozens of times and stretched them out
 
Here's an obvious question: are the suspension arms installed properly, as in the straight edge of the suspension arm is towards the front of the vehicle and the slanted edge is towards the rear?
 
Yes sir, all on correctly

All new pins and plates/mounts too
 
Your situation is downright weird: I can't see how the steering blocks would twist to the rear, unless something is broken at the inner suspension arm attach points, or maybe if the spacers/caster clips are in the front of the suspension arms so the caster is too extreme.
 
Everything in correct location, nothing broken. Welcome to my world, at least I'm not alone in my thinking of how this makes little sense lol! Only thing that makes sense, at least in my head, is the pillow blocks have worn into an oval shape, say from front to back, allowing enough play to make this occur, I know the adjusters for setting tension on the balls are half rounded out so they've been off a bunch, which I can only assume is from the balls popping out a bunch, they're cheap through jrc so worth trying

IMG_20220712_112051690_HDR.jpg
 
I do believe that the rear aluminum hinge pin mount is upside down: the tab goes down into the space in the composite piece. But that shouldn't affect the suspension arms.

If you buy new steering blocks and pillow balls, make sure you get the new HD steering blocks.
 
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That's just a shadow in the picture, it's installed correctly
 
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