Kagama XP 6s diff and shock oil weights..

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Tommyguns89

Tommyguns89

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I do a lot of trails and jumps. I'm not sure if there is a specific weight category for each style or preference of what you put your RC through but ya... my rear dips so low and I thought about tightening the shock but I know there's oil for them too lol soo ya need help!
 
Tommyguns89 said:
I do a lot of trails and jumps. I'm not sure if there is a specific weight category for each style or preference of what you put your RC through but ya... my rear dips so low and I thought about tightening the shock but I know there's oil for them too lol soo ya need help!
Click to expand...
Ride height should be adjusted using the collar. The rear should not be dipping or dragging it's ass.

Droop - it's important to make sure the droop screws limit the downward travel of the arm before the shocks reach the full limit of their extension.

The shock oil weight is largely down to personal preference. However, if you go too thick, you can damage shafts and blow seals.

On my rig I run:
Shocks
600 Front, 500 Rear

Diffs
20000 Front, 100000 Centre, 10000 Rear.

With a 6S Battery, my rig runs with the arms horizontal when dropped onto the bench. This is how I like to run it generally.

For hard surfaces, I may actually let the car run a little lower. I can do this by reducing preload or by using alternative shock positioning. To reduce grip roll on high traction surfaces - lay the shocks down a little.

PXL_20241102_155339556.MP.webp


image.webp

Screenshot_20241224-081732~2.webp

One of the cool things about running an onboard camera is analysing the effectiveness of the truck's setup.

I've always been mightily impressed with the Corally's handling, response and balance.
 
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Diff oils I run 30K/700K/10K, I don't really have enough experience to say if this works well, I do know I like this center diff, but I also have understeer. However I don't think this is because of the diff oil ( or at least not for the biggest part).

For shock oils I run 600 front, 550 rear, but with slightly smaller holes in the shock piston. It probably is like 600 with the stock piston. It makes the RC slightly less responsive, but smooths out the lip and landings of jumps a lot, which I currently prefer.
 
Shocks
I've settled on 1000wt, with the Hard springs, and the 6 hole HD pistons.
I found that I'd blow through the travel on lighter (550&650wt) fluids on bigger landings at the BMX track, wearing out the skid plates in a few packs.
@Tommyguns89 I did also notice that the springs 'soften-up' after lots of use. I had to wind on lots of pre-load (about half way down the shock)to keep the ride-height. Back to no pre-load with new hard springs now though.

Diffs
20k front
10k rear
About 400k centre (it's a top-up of 500k with the residual of the factory 100k).
 
Horatio said:
Ride height should be adjusted using the collar. The rear should not be dipping or dragging it's ass.

Droop - it's important to make sure the droop screws limit the downward travel of the arm before the shocks reach the full limit of their extension.

The shock oil weight is largely down to personal preference. However, if you go too thick, you can damage shafts and blow seals.

On my rig I run:
Shocks
600 Front, 500 Rear

Diffs
20000 Front, 100000 Centre, 10000 Rear.

With a 6S Battery, my rig runs with the arms horizontal when dropped onto the bench. This is how I like to run it generally.

For hard surfaces, I may actually let the car run a little lower. I can do this by reducing preload or by using alternative shock positioning. To reduce grip roll on high traction surfaces - lay the shocks down a little.

View attachment 7594

View attachment 7595
View attachment 7597
One of the cool things about running an onboard camera is analysing the effectiveness of the truck's setup.

I've always been mightily impressed with the Corally's handling, response and balance.
Click to expand...
Man I get so jealous when I see other rigs! It's like when I see a dog lol. Your rigs look so sweet! I just want to check them out and all that! Thanks for the info! I'll definitely be referencing when fluids come in!
17357599854076436573997551472564.webp
By collar do you mean the shock collar that you can adjust up/down?
I'm going to move the Rear shocks to the bottom hole on the shock tower. I feel that will do alot too? (Yes she needs a cleaning first)
 
Horatio said:
Ride height should be adjusted using the collar. The rear should not be dipping or dragging it's ass.

Droop - it's important to make sure the droop screws limit the downward travel of the arm before the shocks reach the full limit of their extension.

The shock oil weight is largely down to personal preference. However, if you go too thick, you can damage shafts and blow seals.

On my rig I run:
Shocks
600 Front, 500 Rear

Diffs
20000 Front, 100000 Centre, 10000 Rear.

With a 6S Battery, my rig runs with the arms horizontal when dropped onto the bench. This is how I like to run it generally.

For hard surfaces, I may actually let the car run a little lower. I can do this by reducing preload or by using alternative shock positioning. To reduce grip roll on high traction surfaces - lay the shocks down a little.

View attachment 7594

View attachment 7595
View attachment 7597
One of the cool things about running an onboard camera is analysing the effectiveness of the truck's setup.

I've always been mightily impressed with the Corally's handling, response and balance.
Click to expand...
Is the last picture an XTR?!??
 
Niekname said:
Diff oils I run 30K/700K/10K, I don't really have enough experience to say if this works well, I do know I like this center diff, but I also have understeer. However I don't think this is because of the diff oil ( or at least not for the biggest part).

For shock oils I run 600 front, 550 rear, but with slightly smaller holes in the shock piston. It probably is like 600 with the stock piston. It makes the RC slightly less responsive, but smooths out the lip and landings of jumps a lot, which I currently prefer.
Click to expand...
Nice! I found this...its arrma but was wondering if it was a simple explanation or wrong? Im green when it comes to diff gears and shocks so... i wonder if you lower your front diff wt or raise the rear diff wt and maybe youll lose the understeer? Or upgrade servo? Or don't listen to me? Lol all thoughts here haha
diff-oil-explained.webp
 
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Jeffwazz said:
Shocks
I've settled on 1000wt, with the Hard springs, and the 6 hole HD pistons.
I found that I'd blow through the travel on lighter (550&650wt) fluids on bigger landings at the BMX track, wearing out the skid plates in a few packs.
@Tommyguns89 I did also notice that the springs 'soften-up' after lots of use. I had to wind on lots of pre-load (about half way down the shock)to keep the ride-height. Back to no pre-load with new hard springs now though.

Diffs
20k front
10k rear
About 400k centre (it's a top-up of 500k with the residual of the factory 100k).
Click to expand...
So you ordered the hard springs for the kagama? I was looking at them as well along with the various stiffener available! Looks like hard springs for me! Thanks for the advice! Seems to be a good ratio!
 
Tommyguns89 said:
Man I get so jealous when I see other rigs! It's like when I see a dog lol. Your rigs look so sweet! I just want to check them out and all that! Thanks for the info! I'll definitely be referencing when fluids come in!
View attachment 7616By collar do you mean the shock collar that you can adjust up/down?
I'm going to move the Rear shocks to the bottom hole on the shock tower. I feel that will do alot too? (Yes she needs a cleaning first)
Click to expand...
Cheers buddy!

Yep, sure do. This is the pre-load collar.

1000028313.webp

Turning it clockwise adds pre-load and raises the car up. Turning it anti-clockwise reduces the pre-load and the car sits lower.

Droop screws are here:

1000028314.webp
 
Tommyguns89 said:
Nice! I found this...its arrma but was wondering if it was a simple explanation or wrong? Im green when it comes to diff gears and shocks so... i wonder if you lower your front diff wt or raise the rear diff wt and maybe youll lose the understeer? Or upgrade servo? Or don't listen to me? Lol all thoughts here hahaView attachment 7617
Click to expand...
Yes - this is an excellent source of reference. 👍
 
Tommyguns89 said:
Such detail with your explanations! F'n love it! Thank you!
Click to expand...
Cheers again. The devil is in the detail and in my estimation, this is what makes forums a great resource.
Tommyguns89 said:
Yaa lol I'd say so!! You like ripping up the roads I see! I bet that beauty smacks 75+mph?!
Click to expand...
It's definitely a platform now capable of handling 8S with ease. On stock ESC and a 1780kv 4292 4200watt motor, it hits 69mph and does 0-60mph in 3.78 seconds on 6S, which for an off road rig of this size is bonkers. It's also right at the limit of what the Torox 185 can do.
Tommyguns89 said:
Perfect! Other then it not listing a weight ratio for the thinner/thicker i feel it dumbs things down really well lol
Click to expand...
Yeah, so many different weights - they wanted to keep it concise for an 'at a glance' table for bashers.

Thicker diff oils generally prevent power robbing diffing-out, but at the expense of cornering agility. Many people run much thicker oil in the centre diff, which results in lots more wheelie action! 😝 My 100k is very tame.

I don't recommend running too thick a weight on the shocks, especially if the rig is being jumped more than 5 feet off the ground. It will bend shafts, break pistons, blow seals etc. 👍
 
Tommyguns89 said:
So you ordered the hard springs for the kagama? I was looking at them as well along with the various stiffener available! Looks like hard springs for me! Thanks for the advice! Seems to be a good ratio!
Click to expand...
It's hard springs as listed for the Kronos/Punisher. Just from squish comparison with my buddy's Kagama, seem to be the same as what's fitted stock on the Kagama. C-00180-288 and -291.
And then with the stiffer springs, more damping is needed, hence the thicker oil.
 
Jeffwazz said:
It's hard springs as listed for the Kronos/Punisher. Just from squish comparison with my buddy's Kagama, seem to be the same as what's fitted stock on the Kagama. C-00180-288 and -291.
And then with the stiffer springs, more damping is needed, hence the thicker oil.
Click to expand...
Perfect! Thank you and yes I'm probably going to try around 600 front 700 rear if possible. Still thinking about the diffs...🤔
 
Tommyguns89 said:
Yaa lol I'd say so!! You like ripping up the roads I see! I bet that beauty smacks 75+mph?!
Click to expand...
My stock Punisher currently holds the (unofficial) Strava speed record down the back straight at Bath cycle track😁 When the tyres balloon, you get an extra boost of speed and if you can keep it in a straight line and out of the fence, then 70+mph is possible. Terrifying, but possible.
 
Lol when the tires balloon! That's insane! Usually when I get up to high speeds....I start ordering parts hahahh.
 
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